April 1999 - Granada

Ascendant technology in the milk-cheese sector :

The case of cheese from small ruminants in disadvantaged areas

Jean-Paul Dubeuf

CIRVAL, Corsica, France

The future of cheese production in severely disadvantaged areas faces numerous challenges. The small ruminant dairy sector in the mediterranean basin is a typical case, and a good example to show why and how the sharing of scientific, technical and economic information between different production areas can contribute effectively to the necessary organisation of the marketing chain (filière).

This sharing of information, which is essential in order for operators to appreciate their own situation within the industry, will undoubtedly be brought about through a redefinition of forms of dialogue, exchange and comparison.

Making an environment to safeguard traditional products

The sheep and goat dairy sector is highly diversified within europe; an old and well-structured industrial sector exists alongside traditional and artisan forms of production. However, the pastoral nature of this type of production is a fundamental characteristic of Mediterranean culture which has universally led to the preservation of original and typical products associated with their place of production.

Mediterranean cheeses are popular with consumers and are sold in niche markets, often attracting significant added value (see tables 2 and 3); it is probably this added value which permits the continuation of this activity in regions of poor agri-climatic potential. This reasoning is also largely applicable to the cow's milk cheese sector in disadvantaged regions (mahon in the balearic islands, ragusano in sicily, beaufort in the alps, etc.).

However, in numerous regions, neither the production, nor the processing or marketing are organised. On the contrary, in others, three brands of industrial product dominate the market (see table 1.). Until recently, this situation did not pose a major problem; in a rapidly growing market, these three cheeses were wellknown and had few marketing problems. But, for a number of years now, the situation has been different.

Three of the major cheeses produced in the mediterranean region have recently experienced commercial difficulties. The main causes of problems have been saturation of the internal market and the decrease in european export refunds (pecorino romano), changes in consumer habits in the overcrowded blue-cheese market (roquefort) and competition from dairy products made from cow's milk or other regions (feta) (a fall of 12% in the price of feta in 1996, 20% in ewe's milk in sardinia, etc.). In this context, in the absence of a common market organisation, the industrial sector is logically looking to diversify. Numerous imitations of traditional products are being offered to consumers, who are not always able to identify them clearly.

It is therefore necessary for the economic actors to organise themselves in order to promote recognition of the individuality of their local products and to ensure that they are promoted and distributed beyond local markets in areas where they are not widely recognised.

At a system level, agricultural development services have access to few specific models: in the case of sheep the main model available for reference is roquefort and for goats, the intensive Poitou Charentes model. These two cases may be of benefit for all mediterranean areas, but the implementation of a coherent transfer of technology implies the existence of effective follow-up by technical and economic services.

Increasingly, european regulations concerning health and hygiene standards will impose a rapid modernisation of equipment (directive eec 92/46). The financial burden and management of these investments are frequently the cause of instability for the farm or artisanal processing units. The essential challenge which will put the sector back on its feet is undoubtedly that of its professionalism.

Organising the sharing of information.

Create the information and establish necessary references.

I. Technical-economic data requirements.

Goat/sheep farming in severely disadvantaged areas lacks the information necessary to describe and classify farms

• identify reserves of productivity • offer producers coherent strategies for the future (choice of techniques, diversification, collective organisation etc.

To achieve this, it is essential that the development structures organise themselves and offer farmers and farmer/processors services which address their needs.

The establishment of technical-economic follow-up is essential so that the performance of the herd, and not simply an individual animal, is better taken into account. The establishment of a target market is vital and necessitates market research.

An increased emphasis on training and the organisation of apprenticeships and exchanges.

II. Strengthen the position of these cheeses on the market and their reputation.

It is imperative that the different regions look after their niche markets at the same time as improving their global competitiveness. In order to avoid imitation products destroying their reputation, the establishment of collective initiatives is vital.

This will involve the identification of products through, for example, the creation of quality labels and studies on cheese characterisation. These are also the type of collective initiatives which will ensure the promotion of products outside local markets and local marketing structures and facilitate regular distribution.

Numerous initiatives are emerging in several regions (the "qualita latte" program in sardinia, the creation of several marketing bodies, etc.), But they must be maintained through an active partnership between the actors in production, processing, development and research.

Establish opportunities for dialogue, exchange and confrontation.

In order to fulfil these objectives, an opening outside the areas of production, which are often isolated, is essential. It is necessary that networks are created in which researchers participate, as well as technicians, and economic actors (processors, farmers, and professional representatives.)

It is therefore a question of diversifying the opportunities and forums for exchange in order to overcome the enormous deficit of information.

New information technologies, such as the internet are often introduced as the solution to these questions. However, there are still many hurdles to be overcome before infrastructures, as well as attitudes, allow the real use of these tools outside the scientific sector. In diffusing simple and structured information through local networks, organising permanent co-operation between professionals, technicians and scientists, it is possible to identify the strategic margins for manoeuvre in a sector in jeopardy. The dairy and cheese sectors in disadvantaged areas have no choice but to rapidly succeed in

modernisation. Modernisation in this context is not a process leading towards an impersonal and anonymous machinery which destroys traditions and leads to a homogenous means of production, expertise and taste. Modernisation, as it is used here, is an approach which enriches tradition, which feeds collective innovation and takes into account the interests of those who implement